Tips & Advice

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Selling Used Cars

Online advertising is the most cost effective way to sell used cars. Particularly if you are a Private seller advertising on CarHunt.co.uk where ads are FREE.

Used car buyers who travel long distances to buy a second hand car do so to get a bargain. These are not the best buyers for your car. CarHunt.co.uk customers are likely to come from places such as Birmingham, Bromsgrove, Coventry, Dudley, Redditch, Solihull, Sutton Coldfield, Walsall, Warwickshire, Wolverhampton, Worcestershire and throughout the West Midlands.

Unlike some national websites, your ad will not be lost amongst several hundred thousands of other used cars. CarHunt.co.uk gives far better odds of your ad been seen. Selling your car locally can often result in a better price as convenience is more important to local buyers.

Placing an ad alone however is not enough. Your ad must attract attention and stand out from other advertised used cars. Below are some simple rules to help you and example ads can be seen by clicking on the pictures on the right.

Price
A used car is worth less money than you paid for it - exceptions to this are very rare.
Get this right. A used car that is overpriced wont sell no matter how you advertise it or for how long. The price must reflect the vehicles age, mileage and condition. Make, model and colour also have a bearing on its saleability. A 5 year old silver BMW 316i will sell much quicker and at a better price than a 2 year old yellow Skoda Fabia! Check out used car values at Parkers and look at similar cars advertised on this site before setting your price. Be realistic

Images
These help but must be genuine. Apart from copyright law, a potential buyer will walk away if the photo doesn't match reality. But make your photos do justice to the car.

Condition
Make sure your car is clean, inside and out. Don't be tempted to paint over any scratches in the paintwork. This may simply make the buyer suspicious. Present the car honestly but in the best condition you can.

Warranty?
Used cars purchased through a Dealer will come with some form of warranty. Private cars usually don't - unless it is relatively new (less than 2 years, normally) and still has some of the original manufacturers warranty left. An alternative is a private warranty insurance scheme. The best we know is supplied by Warranty Direct. Click on the link to visit their website. Selling your car with a warranty can make your car more desirable and add to it's value.

Be Patient
You could get lucky and sell within a day or so but most used cars take a couple of weeks to sell. To get the best price, it's worth taking a bit longer and holding out for the best offer. With CarHunt.co.uk your ad is FREE* and remains online until your car is sold and you take it off. With CarHunt.co.uk you can afford to be patient.
* private advertisers only

Buying Used Cars

Buying a used car can be one of the most rewarding or frustrating experiences you will have. Let the buyer beware, is the legal term used when dealing in second hand cars, so beware.

The secret to getting it right is to follow some simple rules:

A Good Honest Motor
It may be something of a cliche but a used car that is presented honestly is worth a look. It may be old, have lots of miles on the clock and a bit scruffy but if this is reflected in the price, it's worth a look. The advantage is you know what you are getting. Cars that are in "remarkably good condition for its age" may have been lovingly cared for - or may have been given a make-over to hide faults. There are a number of tell-tale signs - see our simple check list below.

Find Out About It
If you have a particular used car in mind or a shortlist of a few, do some research and find out all you can about the make and model.

Read independent reviews like those in TopGear, AutoExpress, WhatCar?, Car, Which?, AutoCar, Parkers, etc. See what the manufacturer has to say if the car is still a current production model.

Try some of the links provided on this site such as the The Reliability Index, My Car Check, Sports Car Guides, etc.

Talk to people who already own one. You will find most people only to happy to tell you all about the cars good and bad points.

Some car makes have known common problems like oil leaks, gearbox problems or prone to rust. Find out what you can about these by reading as many car reviews as you can.

What Will It Cost
Look at and compare all similar used cars in size and age being advertised on this site. Look at published used car valuations by visiting Parkers, for an independent and researched valuation service.

Don't just consider the initial purchase price - look at the cost of car insurance, replacement parts, servicing and general reliability. Look also at the condition of expensive items like tyres and exhaust systems. Will they need replacing soon. What work has already been done to the car and when? Costly items such as cambelts, sometimes need changing somewhere between 60,000 and 120,000 miles so watch out for things like these.

Used car resale values are an important consideration, particularly when buying a 'nearly new' used car. Some cars hold there values well whilst others depreciate rapidly. Don't just consider its value today but what your car may be worth in 2, 3 or 5 years time.

Checking It Out
Once you have found a used car or cars that suit your needs and budget, go and see them. Check the car(s) over thoroughly. If you are not sure what too look for, take someone with you who knows something about cars. Better still, get the car checked professionally.

Dekra are the AA's approved inspection service.

Check out the cars history. Does it have any outstanding finance, is it stolen, has it ever been involved in a serious collision? Be aware however that professional services will cost you money. The best known is HPI. A link to their website is provided on the right hand side.

Our Simple Check List
If all that seems like too much trouble and you are confident in your ability to tell the difference between a good used car and a dud, you may find our checklist useful.

Bodywork - Take into account the cars age, mileage and price when looking for dings, dents and scratches. A second hand car with lots of dents and low mileage may not have been cared for. A second hand car with high mileage and few bodywork blemishes has either been looked after or cosmetically 'improved' to get the best price. Be wary!

Rust - Sounds obvious but not all rust is. Check wheel arches, under carpets inside the car and in the boot and under the bonnet. Check for any signs of paint repair or re-spray. Tap the bodywork with your knuckles - if it sounds 'dead' it could be filler.

Crash Repairs - These can be hard to spot if they are done well. If they are done really well and the seller is honest then it's a different issue but look out for

• Slight differences in paint colour and shade and finish
• Distorted panels in the engine bay, boot and under the carpets
• Inconsistent panel gaps between wings, doors, boot lids, bonnets, tailgates and bumpers

• 
  Powertrain - Otherwise known as the engine and gearbox but also includes final drive and differentials. Is there any signs of fluid leaks from the engine, gearbox, radiator, water pump. Look at the ground under the car - or in any other obvious parking space if it's a private sale. The car may have been moved. Look at the condition of the engine oil - open the filler cap and remove the dipstick. Does it look fresh and oily or black and tarry?
  
  Under The Bonnet - check the condition of hoses, pipe-work, electrical connections, radiator and any signs of oil leaks or fluid 'splatter'.
  
  Under The Car - Look for rust, especially around suspension fixing points, the exhaust system, near to the petrol tank and fuel and brake pipes. Watch out for thick black underseal. It could be protecting the car or covering heavy rust. Use a small screwdriver or just your hand to check the solidity of the cars underside.
  
  Wheels and tyres - These are expensive and can contain signs that something isn't right. Look for uneven tyre wear, tyre makes and sizes, depth of thread and any damage to the sidewall. Don't forget to check the spare wheel too.
  
  Interior - Worn Carpets, Seats and pedal covers are a very good indication of a cars age. Low mileage, expect little wear and tear. High mileage, expect these to be worn a little. If the wear and tear is not in keeping with the cars age and mileage, be wary.
  Look out for tears, rips and burn marks in the upholstery. You may be happy to accept some but use them as a negotiating point when discussing price.
  Watch out for water stains on carpets, door casings and headlining. These could signify water leaks for door, window and sunroof seals.
  
  Start The Car - Obvious but unbelievably, almost one third of car buyers don't even turn the ignition key before they part with their money. What does it sound like - smooth or lumpy. What colour smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe. Are there any squeaks, knocking sounds, hissing sounds or other strange noises?
  
  Drive It - Don't settle for a 5 minute trip around the block in the passenger seat. Leave something as a security if needs be but take the car on a decent drive - 15 minutes minimum. Try out a mixture of roads as similar to the roads you normally drive on if possible. Drive over speed bumps. Drive as quickly as permitted. Try its cornering and stopping ability. How does it feel? Safe and secure or a bit dodgy? If it makes you smile, it's a good sign.
  
  Electrics - Do they all work? Lights, Indicators, Horn, Reversing Lights, Hazards, Interior lights, Air-conditioning, Alarm, Audio, etc
  
  Other Checks - To ensure the car is genuine, check that the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN Plate) and Engine number correspond with the vehicle handbook and registration documents and there is no sign of tampering with either. The VIN and Engine plate are usually found under the bonnet or on the inner door posts. They should be pop rivetted in place - not screwed.
  
  Paperwork - It is essential that this is all in order. A used car with a full service history is worth more than one without - but check the service history to see if the owners claims stack-up.
  The Registration document (V5) gives the cars colour, year of registration, model, engine size, registration number, name of the current registered keeper and how long they have owned it, etc. Check that these tally with the car you are looking at and the person selling it.
  If the car is three years old, there needs to be a valid MOT certificate. These are valid for 12 months. How long before it expires?
  Don't hand over any money without the 'New keeper's supplement' section of the V5 (registration) document. You must send this to the DVLA yourself, don't let the seller send it for you!
  
  Warranty - if buying from a car dealer, find out what warranty the car comes from, what are the conditions, exclusions, any excess, waiting period, etc, etc.
  
  And Finally - don't be tempted to buy the first used car you see. Look at several cars (3 or 4) if you can to give you the best comparison of quality and price. Don't be afraid to negotiate with the seller. Most of them, especially used car dealers, expect to have to negotiate to some extent. If you can't get a better price try for some other benefit like CD player, fuel, car mats, and so on. But, be realistic and fair with the seller. This should be a transaction of mutual benefit.

  Online Advertising

  With fewer people reading newspaper ads and more and more using the Internet, online advertising is becoming the quickest, easiest and cheapest way to sell your used car. If you live in the West Midlands, CarHunt.co.uk is the best website for you.

  Your Rights

  Buying privately, from a Dealer or at an Auction provides you with different rights.
  
  Buying from a Dealer gives you more rights - here is a summary of what these are:
  
  Buying from a Used Car Dealer should be the safest way of buying a used car since the dealer is liable under the sale of goods act and will usually give some sort of warranty. But be careful. There are over 1000 used car dealers and traders in the West Midlands. The majority are honest businessmen but, like any business, there are some dodgy characters. If it's a temporary structure on a piece of waste land and they are a bit too vague about warranties, stay well clear. Look for a long established business with a permanent site and a reputation to protect. Car dealers advertising on CarHunt.co.uk are all long eastablished honest dealerships. With dealers howver, you must expect to pay higher prices but check the warranty and after sales policy of the dealership. Tempest Vehicle Services in Lichfield offer up to 2 years warranty and 2 years roadside assistance with certain cars and all come with at least 12 months. Be wary of a 3 month warranty, it's likely to be worthless.
  
  When buying Privately, the law is 'let the buyer beware'. In other words, you are buying on trust and have no come back. Prices will be lower than at a Dealer but without any warranty. This is where you need to use your gut instinct but also, if you really like the car, be willing to spend money having it inspected by either The AA via Dekra or The RAC. You might also want to consider a private warranty. The best we have found is Warranty Direct. A long established and reputable company specialising in used car warranties.
  
  Buying at Auction can be fun but not entirely secure. An auction is somewhere between buying from a Dealer and buying privately. The real bargains at auctions are cars that often require some work. For dealers with service and repair facilities to hand, this is not such a great problem. For private buyers, repairs can be costly and that bargain could well become a money pit. But large fleets and leasing companies do use auctions when they have a large number of cars to dispose of. This can help reduce the price if 15 identical Mondeos are being autioned at the same time. Some cars are sold with a 'Trial' which gives warranty on engine and gearbox but most are sold as seen. Watch the dealers closely, they do this for a living. You can learn how to spot a bargain by watching them closely. You will have a chance to view the cars during the day before you bid and they should have a vehicle report attached to the windscreen. The report will give you basic facts - spec, age, mileage (albeit it will often have some disclaimer on mileage) and tell you if it has ever been involved in a serious accident, had any major work, etc. It's limited but should be accurate and correct. Be careful, once you start bidding you are committed. If the hammer goes down on your bid, you have just bought a car. You will also need to put down a bid deposit to participate and to stop you doing a runner when your £150 joke bet for a Lada gets accepted. If you want to find out more, go to Birmingham Car Auctions
  
  You need to decide what is best for you. Good prices buying privately, the fun and chance of a bargain at an auction or the safety of buying from a reputable dealer.
  
  Happy CarHunting